In the Dorsoduro: First night; first meal
On this trip to Venice, I stayed in the Dorsoduro section of the city in a small apartment on the Grand Canal. Go to (www.viewsonvenice , a reliable rental service.) Staying in an apartment is not for everyone, but if you truly want to feel like you are living in a place then I highly recommend it. The Dorsoduro area is where the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum are and my apartment was a few steps away from Ca’ Rezzonico, one of the most beautiful of the grand palazzos that is now restored and open to the public. This part of Venice has a few hotels, is quite residential and gives you a true Venetian experience.
If you are standing in San Marco Square and look across the water, that is the Dorsoduro. It is connected to the main part of Venice by the wooden Accademia Bridge. Or, you can get there by boat.
On my first night, I ate four cheese pizza in Campo Santa Margherita at a great little outdoor pizza restaurant. Next door was a sports bar where a few dozen Venetians stood watching soccer finals and cheering raucously.
At the next table were Lenny and Russell; two great guys from LA who had also just arrived in Venice. The pizza was amongst the best I’ve ever had. The house wine wasn’t too shabby either. It was great to be back in Venice.