A Travellerspoint blog

Paris Markets: Part 5

Rue Lepic

This is my favorite food street in Paris. Not technically a market, Rue Lepic is a market street. I lived a few blocks away from Rue Lepic when I spent a month in Paris last January. My apartment now is much closer to the center of Paris, so when I returned to Montmartre for a visit I planned to buy groceries at all my favorite shops. Two metros and two cloth bags brought me to Rue Lepic and the realization that I am truly food centric. I might obsess about spending twenty euros for a beautiful scarf, but think nothing of purchasing quality food products without batting an eyelash or asking "C'est combien?". My visit to Rue Lepic took me to the Boulangerie, The Cave de Abessess, Les Rotisseurs du Roy for my all-time favorite rotisserie chicken and chicken onion sausages, to the best cheese shop in Paris, and to the Cafe des 2 Moulin, also known as the Amelie Cafe because many scenes in the film Amelie were filmed here. On the day I came I purchased:
1 chicken sandwich at Josse--the fantastic epicerie and charcuterie place (I was starving)
1 rotisserie chicken
2 onion chicken sausages
2 pork ribs
some pomme terres (potatoes)
two cheeses (one blue, one runny camembert)
a bottle of wine
and (but of course) one baguette.
I still have more markets to visit, and the Christmas markets will open later in November, but it's going to be hard for any market or market street to surpass Rue Lepic.

Posted by teethetrav 07:15 Archived in France Tagged montmartre rue_lepic food_markets_paris amelie_cafe les_rotisseurs_des_roy Comments (0)

Paris: The Covered Passages 2

Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau

There are more passages to explore than there is time in one day. Two that follow the Passage des Panoramas are just off the Boulevard Montmartre not far from the Opera Garnier and the Grand Boulevard where the wonderful Galerie Lafayette is located. A stroll through Passage Verdeau and Passage Jouffroy in the 9th Arrondissement can trick you into feeling as though you time-traveled back to the 1800s.
With no cars, there is little to remind you that you are in present day Paris. It is easy to imagine the awe that Parisians must have felt in these glass and steel covered arcades with dozens of enticing windows and restaurants whose only job was to lure you in. They still do.
For me, one of the more seductive elements are the book stores with rows and rows and boxes of old books that smell as only an old book can smell.
My olfactory memory kicks in and I recall libraries of my youth and the distinctive smell the library, the books, and the pages within those books had. For a moment, as I stand looking at a water color of women from another time, I am lost in the dream of what these passages must have been like a hundred years ago.

Posted by teethetrav 07:23 Archived in France Tagged passage_verdeau passage_jouffroy galerie_lafayette grand_boulevard books_in_paris covered_passage_in_paris Comments (0)

Paris: The Covered Passages

Les Passages Couvert

My flanerie (aimless wandering) got a bit of guidance in a walking tour of some of the many covered passages in central Paris. These delightful, nearly secret--at least to tourists--places hide lovely boutiques, bookstores, restaurants, and even apartments. Many of them have exquisite architecture with archways, steel frames, and glass ceilings. The first passage was attached to the Petit Palais. You could spend an afternoon here just enjoying the large square, the stunning gardens, and the upscale shops under the passage.
The beautiful Galerie Vivienne across from the National Library has intricate mosaic floors, a rotunda, a cupola and decorative details such as painted wreaths. D0594FC1C6593EC57871627DEB010383.jpgD056538803DF6A440C91275760A4E2D8.jpg

Galerie Colbert has no shops, but is known for its columns and architecture. Lately, it's been known for being next door to Le Grand Colbert the restaurant which is featured in the Diane Keaton, Jack Nicolson film called "Something's Got to Give." In the movie, Nicholson crashes a date Keaton is on with Keanu Reeves in the restaurant. He ends up eating with them and paying for dinner. D05A90D2F8FDC2DCB757A1B42C6F59BB.jpg

The Passages des Panoramas has browse-worthy shops galore. It also has restaurants with to-die-for aromas permeating the passage. I had plans for dinner so I resisted the urge to eat, but will definitely return to give one or two of them a try.

Posted by teethetrav 05:59 Archived in France Tagged galerie_vivienne le_grand_colbert diane_keaton jack_nicholson passage_choiseul passage_des_panormanas Comments (0)

Why Paris?

Why Not?

Last year I spent a month in Paris. Now, in the fall of 2015, I am here for two months. I am continually asked, "Why Paris?" Even though I'm a writer, I can't really explain or answer in words. Sunday I was out for a walk and headed to the Tuileries. This photo essay explains "Why Paris?" Octoberflowers2.jpgoctoberflowers.jpgart9.jpgart8.jpg180_art7.jpg90_art6.jpg90_art5.jpgart1.jpgart2.jpgart3.jpgboats1.jpgboats2.jpgpigart.jpgchandelier3.jpgchandelier1.jpg

Why Paris? Why not?

Posted by teethetrav 08:46 Archived in France Tagged tuilerie_gardens art_in_paris why_paris installation_art Comments (0)

Paris Markets: Part 4

Rue Cler

All the days I have spent wandering around aimlessly in Paris, I never knew there was a name for it. I am apparently a flaneuse: a woman who wanders in Paris with no particular destination in mind. Edmund White wrote a book about this called The Flaneur. Who knew? Although to be accurate, I've been wandering to different market destinations. But those walks generally take me off course to, well...wherever they take me.

My latest exploration took me near the Eiffel Tower to the American Library in Paris where I got a library card and applied for a fellowship to a writer's workshop. Only twelve will be accepted and I barely made the deadline, so I'm not holding out much hope. But since I was in the neighborhood, I strolled over to the market street Rue Cler. Technically speaking, I don't consider this a market since there are standing shops that exist all the time. But Rue Cler is well known and well documented as being one of the best food streets in Paris, along with Rue de Mouffetard and my all-time favorite, Rue Lepic. I confess that as I wandered, I kept an eye out for Ina Garten. She is in Paris filming her show and where else would Ina hang out, but in a market, right?
Rue Cler is everything I've heard it was. I spent over an hour ogling the fromagerie, les fleurs, the wine shops, the produce stands, and the gorgeous, enormous heads-on shrimp. The smell of carbohydrates permeated the air from the boulangerie. Who doesn't love the smell of carbohydrates in the morning?
ruecler.jpgflowers.jpgrueclerfromagerie.jpgrueclerproduce.jpgjuesslin.jpg 0B18D58F03DF7E9DE4ABE7B9F43C4EA1.jpg
But the shop that pulled me in and pulled my wallet out was Juesselin. I had to remind myself I didn't have to buy everything I saw all at once. I can return. So I limited my purchase to les haricots verts, les champignons, un melange des vegetables and some kind of veal meatballs. With my baguette in my bag topping off my purchases, I returned home satisfied I had finally found a market worthy of its reputation. Even if I didn't spot Ina and Jeffrey.

Posted by teethetrav 02:20 Archived in France Tagged food france french_markets rue_cler flaneur flaneuse juesselin ina_garten ina_and_jeffrey Comments (0)

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