A Travellerspoint blog

Paris Markets Part 3

St. Eustache Les Halles

Les Halles was a legendary market that no longer exists. It was once the most popular and thriving market in Paris. The area now is a combination of old and new. The architecturally controversial Pompidou Center straddles one side of this district and an enormous construction project is smack in the middle of Les Halles across from the ancient St. Eustache Church which dates back to the 1500s.
I caught the market on a quiet afternoon. Many of the stands were open, but the vendors weren't even visible. There were clothes stands, fish and meat, and a cheese stand that had a wonderful sample of many different hard and soft cheeses. Of course I bought some along with my baguette. This market is not far from my apartment, so I'll go back for more cheese and see if there are more vendors on a different day. This seemed sparse considering the history and reputation of the original Les Halles.
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The beautiful window displays at E. Dehillerin, an amazing cookware store, were my favorite part of this walk. Sadly, I can only look not buy. But I'm wondering if they ship. I think a copper pot would look perfect in my kitchen.

Posted by teethetrav 05:10 Archived in France Tagged markets paris les_halles paris_markets st._eustace_church st_eustace_market Comments (0)

Paris Markets Part 2

St Germaine Marche

This is a lovely indoor market. It is small and, like all things in St. Germaine des Pres, classy and pricey. A short walk from Boulevard St. Germaine, I love the arches and the look of the architecture. If you live in St. Germaine, you can pretty much find everything you need in this market. There is poultry, a butcher for your meat and charcuterie, beautiful fish, pates of all kind. I am not a fan, but there is even a pate fois gras! Did I mention St. Germaine is tres cher (expensive)?
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Even if you not are staying in St. Germaine it's some where everyone should visit. Just wander, leche les vitrines (window shop or literally, lick the windows) and enjoy the cafes.
I stumbled on my new favorite perfume here last time I visited. It's by Hayari and it's called "Just for Her." When I am home every time I inhale the scent, I feel like I'm in Paris.

Posted by teethetrav 01:04 Archived in France Tagged france paris_markets st._germaine_des_pres Comments (0)

Paris Markets

Marche Saxe Breteuil

I love Paris. I also love food, food markets, indoor and outdoor markets of all kinds. In my younger days, one of my favorite shopping experiences was going to the Englishtown Auction in New Jersey in the early hours of a Saturday morning and wandering. There were rows and rows of outdoor tables to see first, then it was on to the indoor buildings to warm up and find coffee. Outdoors, the best stands and finds were the independents. You literally never knew what you would find. I once found a copper sculpture of a Paris cafe for $3 which I still own. I refined my haggling skills here. Indoors, the Amish had a booth every week where you could buy fresh and amazing cheeses. As the years went by, Englishtown became more of an indoor mall with no true bargains and the outdoor tables were more commercialized with vendors who sold socks, jeans, and other outlet-type goods.

After the old Englishtown Auction, my all-time favorite market is La Boqueria in Barcelona. That is in a class by itself and sets the bar for all markets everywhere.

Since this is my second long stay in Paris, I have decided to visit as many markets as I can in no particular order. On a Spring trip to Provence a few years ago, I went to as many of the Provencial markets as I could. I loved them all. There were flower markets, flea markets, and food markets galore. Many of my favorites were in Aix-en-Provence. So Paris markets are going to have to be something special to meet my standards.

My first Paris market trip was to the Marche Saxe Breteuil which is open on Thursdays and Saturdays. I had read that it was part food, part flea market and is known in particular for kitchenware and linens. Although I found pots and pans and a variety of clothes, the ubiquitous scarves, and an abundance of fruits and vegies there were only a handful of other food vendors and no linens at all. There were a couple of poultry vendors and I opted for a cooked, rotisserie chicken. I also bought cheeses, olives, and my mandatory baguette. All in all, the produce was the highlight of this medium-size market. I discovered an heirloom tomato called coeur de boeuf . The tomatoes and the olives were the best products here. The French pumpkins were pretty and shaped differently than those I am used to.
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Posted by teethetrav 01:29 Archived in France Tagged provence la_boqueria marche_saxe_breteuil englishtown_auction_nj aix_en_provence french_markets Comments (0)

Bermuda Cruise

Norwegian Breakaway

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This cruise was unusual for a few reasons. First, we were skirting along avoiding the huge Hurricane Joaquin. The sea was rough and the ship rocked, even though it is as big as a small city. It defies logic that something that big can actually float. We cruised along for a few days and then the next unusual event occurred. The Captain came over the loudspeaker and announced we had to veer off course during the night. We had backtracked and were off the coast of South Carolina. There was a medical emergency on board and someone had to be media-vaced off the ship. Sure enough, a short while later, a Coast Guard boat circled around us in the water and a helicopter hovered over head. Someone was lowered onto the deck. More announcements warned us against photography OF ANY KIND. No wonder. I'm sure they don't want this sort of stuff to be publicized. After the poor soul was lifted onto the helicopter, the engines started and we were off. Our arrival in Bermuda was set for afternoon and had been delayed by our unscheduled stop.
lobster

lobster

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Drowning my sorrows in lobster and tiramisu, it was consoling to notice that the air had turned balmy and humid. Hanging on our balcony, I looked forward to three days in Bermuda. That was the other unusual feature of this cruise. Instead of hopping off and on in various ports, we got to stay in the harbor in Bermuda for three days enjoying the Island's gorgeous beaches, such as Elbow Beach, and Horseshoe Bay, as well as the town of Hamilton.90_Hamilton.jpgElbowBeach1.jpgswimmer.jpg By the time we arrived, the Hurricane was a vague memory and Bermuda had been spared.
There are shows on board to enjoy, a bit of gambling, endless meals and a few cocktails. All in all, in spite of a shaky start and Hurricane Joaquin, I loved my first cruise. I might even be persuaded to do another. Someday.

Posted by teethetrav 05:20 Archived in Bermuda Tagged cruising bermuda hamilton horseshoe_bay breakaway elbow_beach norwegian_cruise Comments (0)

Cruising to Bermuda

Norwegian Breakaway

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I am no longer a virgin. I've taken my first cruise. And survived Hurricane Joaquin and the Bermuda triangle, although on Day 2 that was not something I was taking for granted. Days roll by on a ship, I discovered. Time is unimportant and news revolves solely around where you are eating your next meal. But I digress. Day 1 we boarded in New York City as Hurricane Joaquin was just in front of the east coast. It was heading directly for Bermuda and so were we. By afternoon, our sailing had been delayed until 2 a.m. of Day 2. Since I was fearful of seasickness and the ship was tightly anchored in port next the Intrepid, I felt solid and safe. Almost as if we were on land. That night we had dinner and saw Cirque de Soleil which was truly amazing. Then we went to bed for a few hours and set our clocks to see the ship leave NY harbor.
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The New York skyline is one of my favorite views anywhere and to see it lit at night from the water is one of the most amazing sights I think I'll ever see.
Watching the skyline disappear, the bridges twinkling like diamond necklaces, and seeing the Statue of Liberty is an experience I rank up there with my favorite travel moments. I've lived in or near New York all my life and my ancestors sailed into the same harbor. Leaving NYC by ship make me think about all they had gone through to get to the US.

Later that morning, we were rocking and rolling. The sea was rough and none of us were doing well. Most of the people on board were not doing well. My accoutrements (wrist bands, patch, ginger candies) were not helping. I resort to drugs and by evening, it was all good.

Posted by teethetrav 03:21 Archived in USA Tagged nyc intrepid statue_of_liberty cruising bermuda norwegian_breakaway Comments (0)

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