Pyrgos, Santorini

Pyrgos is a picturesque village with iconic Greek views.

Of course, there are stunning views everywhere on Santorini, but Pyrgos has no clear view of the mystical caldera which means it's less crowded than some other towns such as Oia. In Pyrgos you can wander the streets and wind your way through the narrow paths to the top of the town to the medieval Kasteli (castle) and the historic Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary. All roads lead up and it's impossible to get lost. Even if you do, you are surrounded by blue sky, white limestone buildings, and charming doorways.

A benefit of getting lost is finding a Ben & Jerry's where you can stop for a baklava or some ice cream.

The view of the Aegean surrounds you and you can find a place to sit at rooftop restaurant, eat wonderful food, drink lovely Santorini Assyrtiko wine, and watch a spectacular sunset.


Thanks to our lovely concierge Evelyn from our villa Soil of Sun, we ate at Cava Alta. The meal, the view, the service, and the sunset were perfect.


A big part of travel is discovering new dishes. At Cava Alta we were introduced to fava, a Santorini specialty. Fava is served as a side dish or an appetizer. It has no relationship to fava beans as I thought at first.

There are many ways to make it and I experimented once I got home. Here is the recipe I came up with. Enjoy!

Ingredients:
1/2 lb split yellow peas
1 medium sweet onion, peeled and sliced into thin slices
2-3 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 bay leaf
1 sprig rosemary
3 sprigs thyme
2 small lemons, juiced
4-5 tablespoons good tomato paste
extra-virgin olive oil

Cover the bottom of a large pot with olive oil. Heat, then add the onions. Cook over medium heat until translucent. Add the fresh herbs, the bay leaf and the garlic.
Wash the peas and add to the pot. Cover generously with water. Cook over low heat. Stir from time to time. Cook for at least an hour. The peas should be mushy but not too soft. Add more water if the peas absorb too much before they soften. Remove from heat when the peas are smooth and creamy. Remove stems and bay leaf. Using an immersion blender, slowly add 3 to 4 tablespoons of olive oil, tomato paste, and the lemon juice and blend. Fava should be the texture of hummus or very thick pea soup. Add more olive oil or tomato paste to taste.

Serve warm or room temperature with pita bread on the side. Add a drizzle of olive oil just before serving.