A Travellerspoint blog

June 2010

Things to do in and around the Dorsoduro Part 2


Venice is famous for its masks, now used mostly during Carnevale. The tiny mask shop where Stanley Kubrick had masks custom-made for his film Eyes Wide Shut was around the corner from my apartment. 7DSC02316.jpg DSC02317.jpg As was this fountain. 90_DSC02299.jpg Every day, for a few hours each day, a large dog was tied to this fountain and greeted everyone who passed by. When he wasn’t sleeping, of course.

The Dorsoduro is made up of small neighborhoods. My apartment was steps and one tiny bridge away from the Piazza San Barnaba where locals gravitate before school or work to have a quick espresso or cappuccino at the bar. I had mine with a warm brioche filled with marmalade. You could smell them baking from down the street. The piazza fills up again at lunch (siesta) time. Later in the day, people once again flock to the piazza for an aperitif after work. This being Venice, prosecco is the local favorite. Some of the crowd lingers on for dinner. I had a lovely meal and delicious house wine at Oniga. DSC02397.jpg
This is a small piazza but it has all the essentials; incredible gelato at GROM …crema grom is the specialty and it’s amazing. DSC02398.jpgA few small restaurants, shops, and a church. The church was hosting a small show of models of Leonardo Da Vinci’s designs. That’s one of the features about Italy I love best. Even in the smallest neighborhood, in a relatively obscure church, you can find wonderful art that is not really there for the tourists. The locals were the predominant audience for this show. DSC02395.jpg
Docked alongside the canal next to the piazza is the produce boat. The smells are intoxicating; onions, peppers, gorgeous ripe fruit and the most brilliant looking tomatoes tempt everyone who passes by and most people can’t walk by without stopping to buy at least a piece of fruit.

Posted by teethetrav 06:20 Archived in Italy Comments (0)

Things to do in and around the Dorsoduro: Part 1

Food and Art

Things to do in and around the Dorsoduro

Wander. Get lost. Eat. The Dorsoduro has many little discoveries you don’t need a tour guide for. When you walk across to the end of the island you look across at La Giudecca on the southern lagoon; an incredible view. Walk along the water and take in the views. Stop and eat or have an aperitif and an antipasto at one of the many restaurants that dot the shoreline. I stopped at Caffe La Piscina (www.lacalcina.com) and had amazing pesce misto bruschetta; mixed fish. And the view from the restaurant…. Well, you can see for yourself.
At the furthest tip of the Dorsoduro, beyond the church, Santa Maria della Salute, is the newest art museum called Punta della Dogana. Part of Palazzo Grassi, the building itself is a renovated palazzo that alone justifies the price of admission (7 euros). But the art is worth seeing, as well. While the Palazzo Grassi houses older, Renaissance art, this museum showcases modern art and much of it is political and disturbing. Pieces such as this soccor (futbol) game are thought- provoking and a contrast to the art that you find all over Venice.
The naked statue holding a giant frog is a conversation starter outside the museum.

Posted by teethetrav 06:12 Archived in Italy Comments (0)

Return to Venice

In the Dorsoduro: First night; first meal

On this trip to Venice, I stayed in the Dorsoduro section of the city in a small apartment on the Grand Canal. Go to (www.viewsonvenice , a reliable rental service.) Staying in an apartment is not for everyone, but if you truly want to feel like you are living in a place then I highly recommend it. The Dorsoduro area is where the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Museum are and my apartment was a few steps away from Ca’ Rezzonico, one of the most beautiful of the grand palazzos that is now restored and open to the public. This part of Venice has a few hotels, is quite residential and gives you a true Venetian experience.
Accademia Bridge

Accademia Bridge

If you are standing in San Marco Square and look across the water, that is the Dorsoduro. It is connected to the main part of Venice by the wooden Accademia Bridge. Or, you can get there by boat.
On my first night, I ate four cheese pizza in Campo Santa Margherita at a great little outdoor pizza restaurant. Next door was a sports bar where a few dozen Venetians stood watching soccer finals and cheering raucously.
At the next table were Lenny and Russell; two great guys from LA who had also just arrived in Venice. The pizza was amongst the best I’ve ever had. The house wine wasn’t too shabby either. It was great to be back in Venice.

Posted by teethetrav 07:30 Archived in Italy Comments (0)

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