Lochs, Castles, Mean Fairies, & Rain
02.05.2018 - 12.05.2018
In 2017, readers of The Rough Guides voted Scotland number one most beautiful country. It is. With its 38,000 lochs (otherwise known as lakes), its lowlands, highlands, islands, beaches--both sandy and rocky--, its green hills and barren mountains, Scotland is stunning. And that is just the scenery. There is so much else to do and see. There are beautiful cities, castles, great restaurants, and the funny, friendly people. There are also countless stories about mythical creatures, especially fairies. Not cute ones who want to be your wee friends. Scottish fairies are mean and exist to trick humans.
And, oh yes. There is rain. In some places, you know how they say if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes. In Scotland, if you wait five minutes, you'll just get another sort of rain. Or fog. Or both. I counted seven distinct kinds of rain, most of which I had never seen before. There's misty rain which doesn't actually fall to the ground, it just surrounds you in a delicate veil. There's a rain which falls in droplets that are spaced apart, float around you, and somehow defy gravity. There is soaking, freezing rain, and there's wind-driven rain that flies mostly sideways and hurts when it touches your skin. There's more, but you get the idea. Rain is sometimes briefly interrupted by sun, a temporary condition that lasts a few minutes and is widely celebrated with a wee dram of whiskey. Contrary to rumor, sunshine does exist in Scotland. I saw it twice, once in Edinburgh and once in the seaside town of Portree.
After doing some research, I chose to go in May which is supposed to have fairly good weather. In the winter months, Scotland is quite cold and has little daylight whereas May has very long days. The sun is up at around 5 a.m. and doesn't set until around 9:30 p.m. Another benefit is that in May the midges haven't appeared yet to torment you. The midges, also known as no-see-ums, are the price you pay for warm weather and no rain in Scotland, apparently. May is usually a good month, but this year, winter did not want to let go. It was rainy, windy, and cold. I thought I came prepared for bad weather, but I was not ready for the rugged weather up in the highlands or even for the wind and cold in Edinburgh.
I began my journey in Edinburgh. I had been there before so I did not do some of the things that you would want to do on your first visit, such as visit the Castle and some of the historic places along the Royal Mile. Before I set off on a five day journey to the Highlands and out to the Isle of Skye, I stayed in the old part of the city. A few good places to eat there are the White Hart Inn, the oldest known tavern. The food was good pub food. And there is the ever-popular Kick Ass Cafe. Another good place to eat is Prezzo's on the North Bridge, a reliably good chain with great flat bread pizza. It is reasonably priced and tempts you to come back by offering you a free bottle of prosecco. Who could say no to that? Edinburgh is a photogenic old city and a wee wander here and there is a great way to begin a visit to Scotland. Although the weather was chilly, the sun was out and everything was just beginning to bloom!