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A Month in Paris in Winter

Day 29: Food Crisis

I am fully aware that hunger is a true crisis world-wide. I have seen it and know there are plenty of people for whom one meal a day is a luxury. This post is not intended to be taken seriously.

A food crisis in the USA is a snowstorm that prevents you from getting milk for 24 hours. At the mere threat of bad weather, supermarket lines are impossible.

A food crisis in Paris means I just realized it's Sunday and I can't buy my favorite wine from my favorite cave, my favorite baguette from my favorite boulangerie, or my favorite cheese from my favorite fromagerie. What's worse is that these places are also closed on Mondays too, and these are my last few days here. I will have to do without my reblochon fermier until Tuesday. YIKES.

I am eating my favorite foods and drinking my favorite wine from now until I go home. Back in the US I will dream about the almond croissants, the crunchy baguettes, the crisp, salty French fries, the petite baguette sandwiches, the surprises on the chalk board menus, and the hours spent lingering over meals in tiny spaces, or put together in my well-equipped kitchen.

I think I will miss my chicken place most of all; Les Rotisseurs du Roy. The one with the line. I never tire of the rotisserie chicken, the chicken sausages, the haricots verts, the pommes terres, and the champignons. The owner was a bit like the soup nazi from Seinfeld, at first. But my French has improved and I order quickly now, in French, and I bring my own sack to carry home my chicken and fixings. She even smiled at me yesterday and gave me a bit of sauce (gravy). A first, for me.

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Although I will always hate the stone steps and all the hills, I have walked off all that I have eaten and I still fit easily into my jeans. No need for a gym work-out, here. If I ate at home what I've eaten here, I'd be in big trouble.

Posted by teethetrav 09:12 Archived in France Tagged paris france wine chicken foodie baguettes almond_croissants Comments (1)

A Month in Paris in Winter

Day 21: Market in Montmartre

Montmartre is home to one of the biggest flea markets in Paris. You can visit it any weekend from Saturday through Monday. It is so huge, most people suggest taking a map so you don't get lost. I like small markets; the kind where you can find great food treasures and see locals shopping. This weekend, there was just such a market near the Abbesses. Late Friday night, the tents went up. By Saturday morning the tents and the square were filled with people. Early in the morning, it poured. As if celebrating the festival, the rain stopped abruptly. The sun and bright blue skies appeared. The temperature climbed to mid-40s f and it felt like a tease of springtime.
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The longest line at the market was for Champagne, poured in real glasses which you can keep. All day long, people wandered around the streets of Montmartre with Champagne glasses in hand. 42593977C3F3B79A40096B4A6DA2F577.jpg

The next line was for oysters. They were sold to eat right there, or you could buy a dozen or so to bring home. 425D579CE05EC856D645AB78F56C7C41.jpg425EB84DC870DBF45BFEB2E63D6297EE.jpg

The galete is a French tradition. It's a pastry made with light, airy dough and filled with almond paste and other amazing ingredients. It is only made and sold from Epiphany when Baby Jesus was presented to the three wise men through Shrove Tuesday (fat Tuesday), the beginning of Lent. The [/i]Galette[/i] comes with a crown. Inside, a fete is hidden. Whoever gets the fete, gets to wear the crown and make a wish. The line for galletes looped around the festival.
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After slurping down the briney-est oysters I ever tasted, I purchased little jars of pates and some fresh pasta to cook later. It was 11 in the morning, so I skipped the champagne. I know. It was 5 o'clock somewhere, but I have to pace myself.

Posted by teethetrav 00:37 Archived in France Tagged markets montmartre oysters champagne foodie epiphany gallette_des_rois shrove_tuesday fat_tuesday feve Comments (0)

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